It’s almost like you are entering a mystic world. The roots of a tree on the ground lead you to the tree of life that shelters three tables and sofas around them. Dimly lit fairy lights descend from the tree making the ambiance furthermore mystic.
Dea Dia was a goddess associated with growth and fertility as per ancient Roman mythology. And the restaurant DEA is a play on that. Dea also means goddess in Latin. This restaurant is dream project of Abhimanyu Jakhar, of Jakhar Hospitality.
The welcome drink changes every day. It’s poured in a glass that’s chilled with liquid nitrogen in your presence – the smoke is supposed to cleanse your aura and prepare you for the meal. Kaushik and Gaurav are amongst the few servers who brief you about the concept and help you decide from the menu based on three elements - Fire, Flair and Fermentation! “Fire powers our Robata grill, infusing dishes with bold, smoky layers. Fermentation brings patience, depth, and transformation—breathing new life into ingredients. Flair is the essence of our craft: expressive, intentional, and elegant,” informs Dakshata, their GM.
I choose to start the journey with Japanese Negroni. Smoked rosemary accompanies the small carafe of the cocktail and a glass with ice. The cocktail is meant to be poured sip by sip on the ice and enjoyed leisurely. Smokiness of rosemary definitely titillates the senses. Use of umeshu and sparkling sake along with gin and vermouth and Aperol instead of Campari give it the umami. “Each drink we have created is a multi-sensory experience,” tells Nikhil, the chief bartender. The say, ‘this is where bring mixology
Charred Pineapple and Amazake |
The Raw Bar in starters has two interesting items – Beet Tartare and Himalayan Trout & Caviar. The first has a sweet potato puree as a base. A mango yolk rests on slices of avocado and beet root. Served with chips, this starter is a medley of textures.
The Himalayan Trout is slow grilled and served on the bed of black apple puree (apples are naturally processed to be black), coconut milk, orange peels accompanied by fermented chilli pickle and finished with a drizzle of herb oil and salmon roe and plum caviar on top. The flavours enhance the original trout taste, and the rice cracker gives the crunch as break from complex flavours.
Picante Fuego |
Fish lovers should not miss the Salmon Ceviche - fresh salmon that comes in every Wednesday. And I was lucky it was Wednesday. Fresh sauce with coconut milk, jalapeño, coriander stem, garlic ginger charred and blended. Slightly sweet. Served with salsa verde that can be added as per taste.
My next cocktail was Glow In The Dark. The glass glowed with the light in it and the drink made you glow with the Vitamin B2 infusion in it. This tequila based cocktail was citrus and agave forward with a dose of fresh pineapple juice and basil leaves garnish.
Their sashimi, nigri and maki section has delicious options as well. Vegetarians should try the Okra Maki Roll. Okra Tempura, Haas avocado, koji, and homemade sauce served with a punchy wasabi paste is a subtle play of flavours and textures. It pairs well with Tokyo Paloma – their take on the traditional Paloma. They use clarified yuzu in the mix with mezcal and top it with a blob of yuzu jelly that adds the Japanese touch to the Paloma.
Their Grilled Halloumi is not actually grilled but shallow fried. Flavoured with Dukkah spices and served with walnuts and wine-poached pears, this one is a passe.
From the Robata grill, do not miss the Chicken & Pickled Leek. Leek mousse in a teak leaf is served on a porcini crumble base with chicken marinated in black garlic reduction and perfectly grilled, served with jus. Leek and black garlic go well together. The porcini crumble adds to flavours.
Stuffed Chicken Wings |
Dragon’s Breath is a cocktail that caters to all your senses. Served in a beewax lined cacao bean pod, this is DEA’s version of Espresso Martini with a dash of homemade coffee liqueur, which makes the delectable difference to the palate along with the presentation. The cacao bean pod is decorated with cacao husk while serving and served with a chocolate rock that’s treated with liquid nitrogen. You are advised to first take a bite of the chocolate and follow it with a sip of the drink. Vapours come out of your mouth like the dragon’s breath! Hence the name.
Vegetarians do not miss the Spit Roasted Flower from the Small Plates. This dish makes you rethink about the cauliflower as a vegetable because each and every part of the vegetable is used differently to create this medley of textures and complex flavours. This is highly recommended by Chef Jayesh, who admits that he has consciously made the menu as sustainable as he can and texture-forward. Cauliflower puree caramelised, white chocolate; the charred sauce that gives it delicious, charred flavour; pumpkin seeds and edamame give the crunch, ancho chilli drizzle lends the spice; tuille is cauliflower honeycomb mold that's sweetish and made from leftover of cauliflower; matcha blobs on the side give the umami.
Dragon’s Breath |
Mystic Skull |
Mystic Skull is another cocktail of sensory delights. The experience starts with the skull shaped glass, the smoke and the taste. Pandan infused rum is delightfully blended with some passion fruits juice and toasted coconut and garnished with baked pineapple. The aroma, the taste, the visual – all are a treat to the respective senses.
After the mains, they give you a paper to write the things you want to ‘let go of’. A fire is placed on the table to burn that paper and let go of the past and move on to the desserts.
While the choice of desserts leaves you flustered, 72% Dark Chocolate is good and safe choice. Hazelnut financier, dark chocolate mousse, chocolate espuma, koji caramel, garnished with nitrogen berries frozen at -200 deg. served with chocolate brittle. It is a chocolate lover’s delight.
Grilled Halloumi |
If in an adventurous mood, try the Black Garlic Gelato. Compressed black apple juice with hints of black garlic served with koji crumble can pleasantly surprise your palate. The koji adds to the umami.
Corn & Camembert is a dessert that uses all parts of corn to give you flavourful dessert. Resting on a miso blondie, corn and brown butter ice cream with a perfect consistency is served with bourbon gel, camembert espuma and Balinese meringues with corn husk powder as garnish. The meringues slowly go to the consistency of marshmallows under the heat of the espuma and that kind of titillates the tongue for more till the ice cream satiates it.
The last ritual after you have cleared your bills is manifestation of future. They give you a piece of paper where you have to write your wishes for the future and put it in a manifestation jar!
DEA is a place where you experience life and immerse in it.
Average cost for two: ₹6000 (including alcohol)
Where: DEA, Prabhadevi, Mumbai
