Iris Van Herpen Transforms Runway With 125 Million Bioluminescent Microalgae Infused In Dresses At Paris Couture Week

Iris van Herpen, Dutch fashion visionary has always blurred the lines between art, science, and high fashion. Renowned for her pioneering work in 3D-printed couture, including an extraordinary 3D-printed wedding gown, van Herpen treats fashion design less like tailoring and more like an experiment in innovation. In her Amsterdam atelier-aptly named an “alchemic laboratory”-she collaborates closely with scientists, artists, and engineers to craft garments that challenge perceptions of what clothing can be.

A runway becomes a living reef

At the recent Paris Haute Couture Week, van Herpen debuted her latest collection titled Sympoiesis, a Greek word meaning “making-with.” True to its name, the show transformed the runway into an otherworldly marine environment. The collection’s opening ensemble, known as the “Living Look,” stunned audiences by literally coming alive as the model moved.

The dress was infused with approximately 125 million bioluminescent microalgae, which glowed in reaction to Stella Maxwell’s steps. According to reports from Design Boom, the illumination started as a subtle shimmer and gradually grew brighter as she continued down the catwalk, evoking the mesmerizing glow of coral reefs at night.

A groundbreaking collaboration with biodesigner Chris Bellamy

This unprecedented creation was the result of a four-month collaboration between van Herpen and biodesigner Chris Bellamy. The project drew inspiration from Bellamy’s earlier work, Lucid Life | Maram Ora, which explored the intersection of living organisms and design. Bellamy shared in an Instagram post that the project initially felt impossible, but over time, with support from the University of Amsterdam, it grew into a bold reality.

“The whole atelier had to learn a completely new language and materiality as we nurtured this dress across country borders and even through heatwaves,” Bellamy wrote.

How the living dress was made?

Unlike conventional garments that are sewn or molded, the Living Look was literally cultivated. The microalgae were grown in seawater and suspended within a specially formulated nutrient gel. This living system was then enclosed by a translucent protective membrane that lets air and light pass through-allowing the organisms to maintain their circadian rhythm and natural glow.

According to van Herpen’s official statement, this approach reframed the act of dressmaking into one of care and stewardship, aligning with her longstanding fascination with nature, biology, and sustainability.

While the concept was revolutionary, the silhouette itself echoed van Herpen’s signature aesthetic, incorporating coral reef-inspired structures and fluid, organic shapes. Each movement of the dress was designed to mimic marine life, turning the catwalk into an immersive oceanic performance.