Kolkata may be the beating heart of Durga Puja, with millions thronging its streets every autumn to marvel at pandals, idols, and the carnival nights that define the city’s spirit. But the festival’s essence spills far beyond the capital with each town and district of Bengal adding its own texture to the celebration. From ancient rituals preserved in rural corners to unique local customs, these celebrations reveal the festival's deeper cultural roots.
Madhurima Chakraborty, now residing in New York, remembers a ritual from the ‘Nikhuji der Pujo’ in Ballygunge in Kolkata that started more than half a century ago. Started for a girl named Uma from the family, to cure her sickness—the pujo follows strict rituals. “The practise of ‘dhuno porano’ in a terracotta bowl placed on the head of the elder daughter-in-law intrigued me”, Madhurima explains. “The priest ignites fire on the bowl. Swirls of fire reaches for the roof as she sits nonchalant and calm.” Believed to ward off evil and bring peace for the family, it is observed by the women of the household sit in front of the Topto Kanchanborna (translates to amber coloured skin) idol of the Goddess and the green Asura.
Barddhaman
Durga Idol Bisarjan in Echamoti River |
In Barddhaman, the art of idol-making takes a twist. Artisans follow the centuries-old tradition of mixing sacred Ganges clay with soil from brothels, symbolizing the goddess's acceptance of all humanity. Folk lore has it that zamindar families like the Seoraphuli Rajbari, whose estate extended as far as the city of Barddhaman in earlier times, began their pujas after divine dreams of Goddess Durga. These pujas maintain strict rituals where the idol is carried on the shoulders of family members on bamboo platforms rather than modern trucks. "Dhunuchi Nach" performances here incorporate traditional Radha-Krishna dance elements, creating a mesmerizing fusion that draws visitors from neighbouring districts. Local women perform intricate alpana designs using rice paste mixed with turmeric, creating elaborate patterns that tell stories from the Devi Mahatmya.
Taki
Octagonal Shiva Temple of Bhattacharya family at Takipur in Purba Bardhaman district |
Near the Bangladesh border, Taki's Durga Puja carries the mystique of riverine Bengal. The town's most celebrated tradition involves immersing smaller clay replicas of the goddess in the Ichhamati river before the main visarjan, believing this ensures the river's blessings for the coming year. Local fishing communities organize floating pandals on decorated boats, complete with clay idols, creating a spectacular water procession. The "Machher Bhog" (fish offering) here includes varieties specific to the Ichamati waters, prepared using ancestral recipes passed down through generations of fishing families.
Murshidabad
Chhau dancer during Ist National Tribal Dance Festival at Delhi |
In the former capital of Bengal, Durga puja retains its Nawabi grandeur. The Hazarduari Palace area hosts pujas blending Islamic architectural elements with Hindu traditions, reflecting the region's syncretic heritage. Local Muslim artisans continue to craft some of the finest dhaks (drums), whose beats echo through the streets of bengal.
The unique "Silk Route Puja" in Murshidabad's weaver quarters features pandals decorated entirely with locally produced silk, creating shimmering backdrops that change color with shifting light. Traditional "Murshidabadi silk saris" become integral parts of the goddess's attire, showcasing the region's textile mastery.
Shantiniketan
Abandoned Durga Dalan of Bagchi family at Jamsherpur in Nadia district |
Rabindranath Tagore's university town celebrates Durga Puja as "Sharadotsav," emphasizing cultural harmony over ritualistic grandeur. Here, the goddess is worshipped through music, dance, and poetry recitals that continue through the night. Students from various countries participate in creating eco-friendly pandals using natural materials like bamboo, jute, and clay.
The famous "Baul performances" during the festival attract folk musicians from across Bengal, creating an atmosphere where devotional songs blend seamlessly with traditional pujas. Art students craft contemporary interpretations of the goddess, often incorporating global themes of peace and environmental consciousness.
In Bishnupur, Bankura, the ancient terracotta town preserves a historic tradition, of the 1027-year-old Mrinmoyee Temple puja dating back to 997 CE, where the goddess is worshipped for 15 days with cannons fired thrice daily. The festival begins with worship of "Baro thakurani," "Mejo thakurani" and "Choto thakurani," and during Mahashtami-Sandhipuja, cannons boom before vegetable sacrifices, creating a martial grandeur that echoes the region's warrior heritage. In sharp contrast, Nadia's Nabadwip - the birthplace of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu - infuses Durga Puja with Gaudiya Vaishnava devotionalism, where traditional festivals blend seamlessly with Gaura-purnima celebrations and kirtan performances of Radha-Krishna's holy names create an atmosphere of ecstatic devotion. Malda's silk-weaving communities transform their ancestral craft into devotional art, creating pandals entirely from locally produced silk that shimmer with divine radiance, while incorporating traditional "Gamcha" offering rituals unique to the region's textile heritage. Meanwhile, in Purulia's tribal heartland, the festival merges with indigenous ‘Chhau’ dance traditions, where masked performers enact mythological stories to the thunderous beats of dhol and nagara drums, creating a primal celebration that connects the goddess to the earth's ancient rhythms - each region thus weaving its own cultural threads into the soul of the festival. These regional celebrations demonstrate how it adapts while preserving local identities.
Hazarduari Palace |
As urbanization threatens to homogenize traditions, these smaller cities and towns become crucial guardians of Bengal's diverse Durga Puja heritage, ensuring that the goddess's celebration remains as varied and vibrant as the land she blesses.
