India's obsession with skincare has catapulted sunscreens into a staple product, finding a spot in handbags, office drawers, and daily routines. But in the rush to meet demand, the sunscreen aisle has turned into a crowded space filled with promises of high SPF, glowing skin and all-day protection.
Behind these claims, however, lies a growing concern: not all sunscreens are created equal. From questionable ingredient lists to regulatory blind spots, many formulations may be doing more damage than good to your skin.
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So how do you know if your sunscreen is truly safe? Dr Saurabh Arora, Managing Director, Auriga Research, helps break it down for us with lesser-known risks and what to watch out for.
The SPF illusion: Are you really protected?
According to Dr Arora, one of the most misleading aspects of sunscreens today is the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) number displayed on the packaging. Consumers often assume that higher numbers equate to better protection but the reality is more complicated and concerning.
He says, "Many products claim SPF values of 50, 70, or even 100 without undergoing the rigorous human-based ISO testing that validates such claims. Due to the high cost of SPF testing many smaller or newer brands skip this step entirely. This means a product marketed as SPF 60 may in fact offer only SPF 20 or none at all."
The expert explains that such misrepresentation doesn’t just lead to sunburns; it can contribute to longer-term skin damage and even raise the risk of skin cancer. Without proper verification of SPF efficacy, consumers are left unprotected under a false sense of security.
Unregulated products and hidden toxins
Under Indian law, all cosmetic products, including sunscreens, have to comply with the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS). "The standards established are not only for microbial contamination, testing for heavy metals, and stability of the product – but still, many brands choose to ignore or are unaware of those requirements," he adds.
As per recent reports from the Central Drugs Standard Control Organisation (CDSCO), several cosmetic products were found to contain a very high content of mercury (a toxic heavy metal that can create very serious long-term problems for health when absorbed through contact with the skin). The presence of mercury is restricted in cosmetics in many countries, and its presence is completely irresponsible on the part of producers.
Dr Arora also emphasises that batch-wise testing is supposed to be the norm, especially for products that come into direct contact with the skin. "However, only well-established brands seem to consistently follow this practice. Without such testing, there is no guarantee that the sunscreen you're using is free of bacteria, fungi or harmful contaminants."
Controversial chemicals and outdated ingredients
Sunscreens use chemical filters to block and absorb harmful UV rays. Many of the ingredients are permitted, but their safety depends on how much you use and in what situation.
"Chemicals like oxybenzone, homosalate, octocrylene, and even para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) have drawn increasing scrutiny. Oxybenzone has been linked to hormonal disruption and skin allergies. PABA, once a common sunscreen ingredient, is now largely phased out due to its irritating nature but continues to appear on some labels in the Indian market," explains Dr Arora.
He states, "The other worrying situation stems from these compounds being used at a level above the maximum allowable level without the right tests to determine safe levels of exposure. A compound that is harmless at low doses can become toxic at higher doses and/or poorly formulated."
He notes that consumers need to start picking ingredient lists apart and learning which filters are generally regarded as safe and which to avoid, especially with sensitive skin.
Awareness is your best protection
In a market flooded with choices and clever marketing, consumers need to be more than just price-conscious. They need to be ingredient-aware and regulation-savvy. The risks associated with under-tested, poorly formulated sunscreens range from minor skin irritations to serious long-term health and environmental consequences.
The expert highlights, "The responsibility lies with both sides: brands must uphold safety and transparency, ensuring that every product and batch undergoes the necessary quality checks and consumers must demand better standards, look beyond flashy packaging and insist on products backed by scientific validation."
Sunscreen is supposed to protect you, not expose you to unidentified risks. However, to reassure yourself that both your sunscreen and skincare measures are not only working but actually safer than you initially thought, remember to read labels carefully, research your ingredients and choose sunscreens that follow nationally and internationally accepted standards of safety.
