In just six years, Geneva Watch Days (GWD) has firmly established itself as a compelling counterpoint to Watches and Wonders—the traditional mecca of haute horlogerie. Born out of necessity during the travel-restricted pandemic era, GWD’s decentralised, relaxed format has since flourished into a unique horological showcase. Unlike its more formal cousin, GWD is open, flexible, and deeply immersive—taking advantage of Geneva’s late-summer charm and lakeside atmosphere. This year’s edition featured 66 brands—nearly triple from the early days—and I had the opportunity to spend time with over 30 of them. The fair proved, once again, that excellence doesn’t need to come with an excessive price tag but with design innovation, mechanical precision, and artistic storytelling. Among the many novelties and showstoppers on display, a handful of pieces stood out not just for their design or technical prowess, but for the rare combination of Swiss-made (some French) quality and sub-CHF 5,000 pricing. From microbrands like Depancel and Beda’a to giants like Bvlgari and Frédérique Constant, the industry is expanding access while still pushing creative boundaries.
Here are six standout models that deliver exceptional horological value.
Amida Digitrend Open Sapphire
A surprise hit and a 2025 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) nominee, the Digitrend Open Sapphire from Amida reimagines the brand’s cult 1970s driver’s watch with flair and finesse. This revival retains the unique jumping hour digital display visible on the front edge—designed originally so drivers could read the time without lifting their wrist off the wheel. But this time, Amida takes it to another level by exposing the entire mechanical show under a stunning sapphire crystal hood. The magic lies in the jumping hour discs performing a slow mechanical ballet. It’s retro, futuristic, and unique—wrapped in sleek finishing and priced at CHF 4500, limited to just 150 pieces.
Bvlgari Bronzo GMT
Bvlgari continues to breathe fresh life into its Aluminium series, which originally made waves in 1998. This year, the brand unveiled a Bronzo GMT edition that blends old-school materials with modern mechanics. The sandblasted bronze case pairs beautifully with the signature black rubber bezel and strap, offering a handsome contrast of textures and colors. The arrow-shaped GMT hand is rose gold-plated and luminescent, while the caseback features DLC-coated titanium—underscoring its rugged sophistication. At CHF 4,390, this travel-ready timepiece offers both versatility and brand cachet, with a stylish nod to vintage aviation watches.
Depancel Allure Autosport
One of the most pleasant surprises at GWD 2025 came from Depancel, a French brand with strong automotive DNA. It's name fuses three historic French car makers, Delage, Panhard and Facel Vega. Its latest release, the Allure Autosport, is an affordable tribute to the golden age of motorsport chronographs—priced at a mere CHF 700. Available in classic Silver, Blue, and British Racing Green, the watch spells vintage appeal with its metallic dials, bold indices, and perforated leather racing strap. But it’s not just about looks—the Autosport’s automatic movement comes with 40 hours of power reserve and bi-directional winding.
Favre-Leuba Chief Skeleton
For the first time in its 288-year history, Favre-Leuba has introduced a fully skeletonised timepiece: the Chief Skeleton. Long known for tool watches with a rugged edge, the brand takes a sharp aesthetic turn here, presenting an intricately open-worked movement inside its cushion-shaped case. Offered in either gold or anthracite finishes, the watch plays with textures: satin-brushed surfaces, spiral snailing, and sandblasted plates form a layered mechanical landscape. The skeletonised rotor is finished to match its case colour, and despite the visual complexity, the piece retains a 41-hour power reserve and smooth 28,800 vph frequency. Priced at CHF 3,450, it’s an eye-catching entry point into skeletonised haute horlogerie.
Beda’a Eclipse
One of the most talked-about minimalists at GWD 2025—and another GPHG nominee—was the Eclipse by Beda’a. Featuring an unusual time display, at first glance, it appears like a time-sculpture: a steel “shield” floats above the dial, offering a window into the sweeping hour reading, as well as a subtle 10-second counter. The Celestial Shield, as the brand calls it, creates a multi-level dial architecture that plays with light and depth in surprising ways. The entire piece measures only 8.1mm in thickness, thanks to clever engineering and a unique lug construction that uses 904L steel—usually reserved for luxury-tier cases. Priced at CHF 2,000, the Eclipse brings conceptual design, craftsmanship, and wearability together like few others at this price.
Frédérique Constant Classics Premiere
Rounding off the list is a name synonymous with accessible luxury from Geneva: Frédérique Constant. This year, the brand added two new variants to its Classics Premiere line—now with integrated stainless steel bracelets and compact 38.5mm cases. Available in salmon and blue dials, both models exude modern elegance while retaining a timeless charm. The move to a bracelet adds versatility and a more urban character to what was once a leather-strap-only line. Both watches feature automatic Swiss movements and subtle detailing that belies their CHF 1890 price tag. They are gender-neutral, built for daily wear, and make Swiss watchmaking accessible to all.
