Bvlgari Crafts the Impossible: Jonathan Brinbaum

Bvlgari Crafts the Impossible: Jonathan Brinbaum

The new MD shares how his experience across other Bvlgari verticals is shaping his vision and strategy for Bvlgari Watches

Mitrajit BhattacharyaUpdated: Friday, August 08, 2025, 09:42 PM IST
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Jonathan Brinbaum | Pics: Bvlgari

Bvlgari is steadily strengthening its India presence with products tailored for the market—such as the Mangalsutra and B.zero1 Kada bracelet—alongside regular visits from global ambassador Priyanka Chopra Jonas, senior leadership across verticals, a growing retail footprint with two mono-boutiques and 12 POS across 10 cities, an exclusive e-concession partnership with Tata Cliq Luxury, and also hosting exclusive events with HNI clients for their high jewellery pieces. The Italian luxury brand, known as a formidable force in jewellery and watchmaking, made its highly anticipated debut at Watches and Wonders 2025 in Geneva with two bold launches: the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world’s thinnest tourbillon 1.85mm thick, and a new take on a house icon—the Serpenti Aeterna.

Spearheading these launches is Jonathan Brinbaum, Bvlgari’s new Managing Director of Watches, who recently transitioned from leading Bvlgari Perfumes. In this conversation, he shares insights into his approach to luxury and watchmaking.

Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna

Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna |

How do passion and emotion weave through Bvlgari’s different worlds—from perfumes and hotels to watches?

Luxury for clients is more than the product. It's an overall experience and, as a luxury maison, we need to offer a 360° experience. Bvlgari started with perfumes 35 years ago, hotels 16-17 years ago, and it added to what the jeweller was. It's more than watches, jewellery or perfume; it's the full environment that the brand encompasses.

What is the most fascinating aspect of haute horlogerie that has captivated you?

I've rediscovered the level of craftsmanship and how the art of watchmaking is linked to regions of Switzerland and people who craft watches. For Bvlgari Watches, we are intentional in miniaturisation, thinness being at the core of many developments.

L to R: Octo Finissimo Ultra, Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC

L to R: Octo Finissimo Ultra, Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC |

Why is Bvlgari so passionate about breaking records?

More than breaking records, Bvlgari has always tried to craft the impossible, and that's really the spirit behind the Ultra Tourbillon. It’s the third in a row after the Ultra COSC in 2024 and the first ever Ultra in 2022, and this time it’s even more skeletonised. The challenge was how to achieve yet another level in the world of ultrathin watches. It's by far the thinnest at 1.85 mm. We used tungsten carbide for the mainplate and dial, while the bezel, case middle, and lugs are made of microbead-frosted titanium. We also had to reshuffle the engineering of the tourbillon, that involved applying for eight patents. The watch was crafted in just nine months.

Tell us about the new Serpenti Aeterna

The Aeterna strips the serpent down to its purest form—no eyes, no scales, no adornment. It debuts as a bangle bracelet for the first time.

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