Indore (Madhya Pradesh): Every year, thousands of devotees brave the Himalayas to undertake the sacred Amarnath Yatra, a journey to the holy cave of Baba Barfani. I had always heard, ‘When Baba calls, you don’t think-you just go.’ That’s exactly what happened with me. One day, I simply felt a pull in my heart. Baba was calling.
What followed was a 14-kilometre trek through breathtaking Himalayan terrain glaciers beneath our feet, clouds above and chants of ‘Jai Bhole Ki’ echoing all around.
Even now, when I close my eyes, I see the sacred cave, the towering peaks and valleys soaked in devotion. The sound of the Amravati stream, flowing beside us, still lingers in my memory.
I went with 15 family members via the Baltal route. I never imagined reaching Baba Barfani’s cave at such a young age. But some journeys aren’t about age or planning—they’re about faith and fate.
Arrival in Jammu – The first step
We boarded our train on July 15, hearts full of anticipation. As we entered Jammu & Kashmir, our mobile networks vanished—SIM cards from other states don’t work here. We were suddenly disconnected from the world. Phones became just cameras. We reached Jammu Tawi Railway Station around 11 am on July 16 and queued up for our Radio-Frequency Identification (RFID) cards—the official passes for the Yatra. Holding that card felt like holding a key to something divine. We were told, ‘Lose it, and the journey ends.’
Security personnel stand vigilant along the route during the convoy |
Through the convoy – A journey secured by heroes
At 5 am on July 17, we set off for Baltal in a traveller van, part of an army convoy. The presence of soldiers all along the route was humbling and gave us a unique feeling of pride and privilege.
They stood silently—rifles slung, eyes scanning—on bridges, in forests, beside rivers. They were everywhere, rain or shine. Watching over us. Their quiet, unwavering service gave us goosebumps. They weren’t just soldiers. They were protectors of faith.
The Baltal Base Camp — the starting point of the trek to the holy Amarnath Cave |
Reaching Baltal base camp
By evening on July 18, we reached Baltal. As we stepped out, we were greeted by chants of ‘Bhole Bhole’. The air felt charged with devotion. After the long road journey, we settled into our tents for the night—tired but filled with excitement for the trek ahead.
The Trek begins – A test of body and spirit
At 3:30 am on July 19, we left the camp and walked to Domail Gate by 4 am. After security and RFID checks, the real journey began. Those unable to walk took khacchar (young horse), as the 14 km Baltal route is steep and rugged.
A gentle drizzle fell, as if the heavens were blessing our steps. Walking through clouds, raincoats fluttering, sticks in hand—we climbed, each breath a prayer. The mountains, the river, even the mist seemed to walk with us. The views were stunning, but it was the shared purpose—to see Baba Barfani—that lifted our spirits.
Bhole: The only identity
What touched me most was the way everyone was simply called ‘Bhole.’ ‘Bhole, take this.’ ‘Bhole, move aside.’ ‘Bhole, have some food.’ Hindu pilgrims, Muslim locals—everyone was Bhole.
No caste, no religion, no status. Just devotion. It was like the air itself whispered the name. I still carry that feeling.
Nature’s test – Steep paths and slippery slopes
The trail tested us—slippery slopes, narrow bridges, tough climbs. Two in our group felt dizzy from the altitude, but thanks to medical camps along the way, they got oxygen and continued. Near Kalika Mata Temple, a steep descent led us to the first glimpse of the holy cave.
Still 3 km away, yet the fatigue melted instantly. At Sangam Point, where Baltal and Pahalgam routes meet, we bathed in the icy stream and changed. Then came the final climb—300 to 400 steps. Security checked us once more, and we left behind all electronics. The moment was near.
Devotees trekking through misty mountains on path to the Amarnath Cave |
Inside the cave
At last, we stepped into the sacred Amarnath Cave. Though the naturally formed ice lingam (Himling) had melted earlier than expected — around July 9–10 — the sanctity remained. We were guided to pray to the right of the Trishul, where Baba’s presence is believed to reside. I bowed my head. I prayed. I surrendered.
Inside, we witnessed something unforgettable — two white-grey pigeons, ancient-looking and still, resting in peace. Glacier water dripped gently from the cave ceiling. We received tilak and prasad. The priest shared that the Himling had once risen over 20 feet before melting.
The cave remains within
Though we walked out of the cave, the cave stayed with us. It found a place deep within. The devotion in the air, the stillness of the mountains and the purity in people’s hearts shifted something inside me — something words can’t explain.
Devotees beaming with joy and devotion as they reach the holy Amarnath Cave |
A salute to our brave personnel
My deepest gratitude to the brave personnel of the Indian Army, BSF, CRPF, ITBP, SSB and Jammu & Kashmir Police. Come rain, snow, or steep terrain — they stood firm. Their silent service gave us the freedom to walk in peace. They weren’t just guards — they were silent blessings.
Langars – Devotion in service
All along the path were countless langars — free food stalls run by volunteers. They served everything — dry fruits, full Indian meals, tea, biscuits, even Chinese and Italian dishes — all with love and zero expectations. Their generosity wasn’t just in what they gave, but how they gave it. The warmth in their eyes and the joy in their voices made us feel like family.
Devotees enjoying a warm meal at the langar |
Come, if Baba calls you
The Amarnath Yatra is more than a trek. It’s a calling. A test. A blessing. If Baba Barfani ever calls you — don’t question it. Just go. Because somewhere along those 14 kilometres, amid clouds and chants, you’ll meet a version of yourself you’ve never known. I began this journey as a traveller. I returned as a devotee.
