What Is Labubu? This Luxury 'Kawai' Bag Accessory Has Fashion World Hooked To It

When edgy street-style meets elite fashion, the result is something as unexpected as it is delightful-cue the Labubu plush toys, now swinging alongside the world’s most coveted luxury handbags like Hermès Birkins. With their mischievous grins and fluffy exteriors, these collectible creatures are turning heads on the arms of pop stars, fashion influencers, and even royalty.

From illustration to global toy craze

Labubu, a spiky-toothed character with a cult following, is part of The Monsters universe created by Hong Kong-based artist Kasing Lung. First introduced in 2015, Labubu didn't come alone-characters like Zimomo, Spooky, Tycoco, and Pato were all part of the quirky fantasy lineup. Drawing inspiration from European folklore and fairy tales, Lung reimagined ancient elf-like beings into contemporary collectibles.

In 2019, Lung partnered with Chinese toy giant Pop Mart, a move that turbocharged Labubu’s reach. The unique selling point? These toys are sold in blind boxes, which means buyers don’t know which character they’re getting until they open it-making collecting them an addictive experience. At around £25 per piece, they’re a relatively accessible luxury that taps into the dopamine-driven joy of surprise.

The Princess effect

Nothing cements a trend like a royal endorsement. Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana of Thailand, known for her strong presence in the fashion world, was spotted at the Hermès Fall 2024 show in Paris carrying a crocodile Birkin-adorned with not one but two dolls, including a Labubu. That single moment ignited a wildfire of demand in Southeast Asia.

Pop Mart stores in Thailand saw lines out the door, and Daigou resellers (personal shoppers who buy goods overseas to sell in China) began sweeping up stock in surrounding countries like Singapore and mainland China to meet the skyrocketing demand. Unsurprisingly, the Monsters collection has become Pop Mart’s second most popular proprietary line and its fastest-growing.

While the trend of bag charms isn’t new, Labubu has added a playful, collector’s twist that resonates with both fashionistas and toy enthusiasts. Each plushie is a miniature work of art with a backstory-part of a broader world built by Lung, where creatures from magical lands come alive through toys.