Kolhapuri Chappal Artisans Slam Prada Over GI Violations: Seek Action

Artisans and political leaders argue that this is a blatant case of commercial and cultural appropriation, with the designs now retailing at eye-watering prices between ₹1.7 lakh and ₹2.1 lakh per pair

Amisha Shirgave Updated: Saturday, June 28, 2025, 12:01 PM IST
Image credit: Prada

Image credit: Prada

The controversy erupted after Prada unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection on June 23. Among the luxury pieces was a pair of leather sandals strikingly similar to Kolhapuri chappals-open-toe footwear known for their braided leatherwork and deep cultural roots in Maharashtra.

Artisans and political leaders argue that this is a blatant case of commercial and cultural appropriation, with the designs now retailing at eye-watering prices between ₹1.7 lakh and ₹2.1 lakh per pair.

The Kolhapuri chappal holds a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, granted in 2019 under India’s Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. This means the product’s identity is legally tied to its region of origin-Kolhapur and adjoining districts like Satara, Sangli, and Solapur-and must not be misrepresented.

BJP MP leads artisan delegation to Maharashtra CM

BJP Rajya Sabha MP Dhananjay Mahadik, who represents Kolhapur, led a delegation of concerned artisans to meet Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis on Thursday. The group submitted a formal letter urging the state to step in against what they described as an infringement on intellectual property and a threat to livelihoods. Mahadik said in a statement to PTI, “The sandals displayed by Prada are unmistakably Kolhapuri in their design. If Prada collaborates with our artisans, we can supply them with authentic products and take the Kolhapuri name global.”

Plans for legal action and national escalation

To intensify the pushback, Mahadik announced that a public interest litigation (PIL) is in the works and will be filed in the High Court soon. He also plans to meet Union Minister of Commerce and Industry Piyush Goyal to press for action at the national level.

The BJP leader noted that Prada appears to have quietly removed images of the disputed sandals from its official website amid the growing criticism.

Kolhapuri chappals: A heritage spanning centuries

Dating back to the 12th century, Kolhapuri chappals are much more than footwear-they are an embodiment of regional heritage. The painstaking process of crafting each pair involves vegetable-tanned leather and intricate hand-braided designs, skills passed down through generations.

Thousands of artisans across Maharashtra depend on this craft for their livelihoods. Mahadik emphasized that ignoring GI protections not only damages the community’s economic prospects but also undermines the cultural identity associated with the product.

Call for stronger protection of GI-tagged crafts

The delegation has called on the state government to create a robust legal framework to shield GI-tagged products from unauthorized use, especially by multinational corporations. Mahadik also demanded legal and financial support for artisans who wish to challenge such instances in international courts.

As this controversy gains traction, it has rekindled broader debates around how global fashion houses often tap into traditional designs without proper recognition or revenue-sharing with source communities.

Published on: Saturday, June 28, 2025, 11:59 AM IST

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