Food Review: Dive into Coastal Delights at TAT, Vikhroli’s New Culinary Gem

The Northeast suburbs get a new premier coastal cuisine restaurant in Godrej Tower 2, Vikhroli. Aptly named TAT, which means coast in Hindi, it takes after its phonetic pronunciation. Championed by noted restaurateur Sumit Govind Sharma of Monarch Liberty Hospitality, who has given Mumbai exemplary restaurants like EVE (Powai and Worli) and Que Sera Sera in Andheri, TAT promises to shine through with its take on regional and traditional cuisines from the Indian peninsula complemented by select Sri Lankan dishes.

The interiors by prolific designer Reshma Karmarkar further justifies and reinstates it with earthy murals portraying seaside, fisherfolks, seashells, conches and boats punctuated with plants to lend a coastal feel. Not overtly dim lit nor bright, the soft lighting creates a warm, cosy ambiance. Just as the name, even the aromatic smell of spices resonates the gastronomic spell, and fills the senses with anticipation. TAT’s kitchen combines the tastes and flavours from different regions seamlessly. It incorporates aspects of cookery from different peninsular cultures. Characterized by fresh, bright flavours that let the simplicity of the ingredients shine through, the menu captures the flavours of India's diverse coastal cuisine by covering the ‘V’ of India, starting from Maharashtra going to up to West Bengal.

Coastal cuisine is less a precise set of recipes and more an overall style and approach towards food. One of the best words to outline the idea of coastal cuisine is simplicity. Nevertheless, simple does not have to mean bland or boring and TAT menu is anything but that considering it has been curated by talented and experienced Chef Sudhir Pai to showcase India’s rich culinary heritage, with a twist. For instance, Meen Curry with Indrayani rice is a combo take on Kerala and Maharashtra. Don’t miss the Sri Lankan Kukul Mas Curry (creamy and mildly spiced chicken) with Malabar paratha. TAT Special Thalis are also available.

Apart from fresh seafood, poultry and meat, an array of vegetarian specials prepared with traditional ingredients are a treat. We tried Konkan’s Kothimbir Diamond Vadi (spiced sesame, coriander dumplings), Vaangi Kaap (Maharashtra’s pan-roasted eggplant) for starters. Markari Theeyal contains the goodness of vegetables with roasted coconut, tangy tamarind and aromatic Malabar spices.

The bar integrates ingredients from nine coastal regions. Our picks are Kote Du Café (coffee washed tequila, coconut, orange marmalade) and Talseri (gin, pickled tomato, lavender syrup). Teetotallers may try Vasanthaneer (coconut water lemonade from the Kaveri belt of south India). Talk of coastal food and can sol kadi be lost? The mallow-coloured, beverage with its tarty notes from tangy kokum, and coconut milk is a digestive drink of the Konkan regions. Succulent prawns from Mangalore in Sigadi Ghee Roast comes across as a fiery, wonderful dish with a perfect balance to tantalise the palate. Koliwada community’s Kekda ‘Pettis’ and Mixed seafood platter are sure to entice the taste bulbs of seafood freaks.

To satiate our sweet cravings, we settled for creamy Bangla Mishti Bappa Doi topped with mango cubes and Pooran Polli Phyllo Moneybag of coconut and jaggery in crispy, flaky roll, served with kulfi.

From Odisha’s Dalma, Goan Saraswat’s Teesrya Masala, Bengal style mutton Kosha Mangsho to Konkan’s Ras Shirvale and Srilankan Prawn Curry and more, you can enjoy an extensive coastal gastronomic outing. With its inviting décor and impeccable service, TAT is a striking and welcome change in the recent spurt of Pan-Asian-cuisine-hammered food landscape of Mumbai!

Average cost for two: ` 2,000 (without alcohol)